With everyone’s luggage in the lobby, bills settled, and breakfast completed we said goodbye to the Cardinal Hotel. The head count was complete and the bus doors were closing when Tony, our alto sax pilgrim, realized his wallet was missing. He just checked out and used it so it could not be far. Hand luggage was checked, the grounds around the bus, and his pockets three times, but there was no sighting of his wallet. Italy has a reputation for being a place where pick pocketing occurs more than occasionally. Not finding the wallet, the bus roared back to life, and we were on our way. Tony was truly bummed out. His anguish and sense of loss could be seen on his face as the bus rolled out of Rome and through the Italian countryside.
We could relate because Tom had been victim of this crime in France and will tell you it is like losing a piece of one’s life. Tom said a quiet prayer to St Anthony in hopes the wallet would be located. ( Tom's Wallet is Missing! ) Our first stop of the day would be in the Rieti Valley, or sometimes called The Sacred Valley, because it is where St. Francis found refuge and inspiration. Piling out of the bus via the back door, Tom turned and looked under Tony’s seat and wedged between the seat leg and the bus frame a small leather corner was visible. Retrieving the wallet, Tony returned to a very happy Tony. St Anthony had come through again!
Gathering as a group, Fabricio gave us an overview of Santuario di Fonte Colombo. It is here in a cave nearby where Saint Francis penned the document that the Pope would approve establishing the Franciscan Order.
Hence, this remote monastery is very important to the Franciscans and honestly it reflects many of the things one usually associates with Saint Francis. The simplicity of the monastery itself offers a quiet respite to reflect and pray.
Quiet with no distractions can be a very special moment in one’s life.
The grounds seemed to be a refuge for animals, especially cats! Everywhere one looked there would be a cat looking for food, affection, or claiming their territory.
We all scattered in different directions. The fresh cool air was invigorating and the natural beauty all around us just put everyone in a calm place. Strangely, it seemed like everyone was whispering not wanting to disturb our surroundings. The noise, smells, and hustle bustle of Rome was far behind us. No need for blood pressure medicine if you live here.
It was a short drive to our next stop, Santuario Eremo di Greccio. The village of Greccio is built on the side of a mountain and was established by a Benedictine monk in the 11th century. The hermitage evolved into a Medieval Fort, but by the mid-13th century it had been destroyed as the Holy Roman Emperor and the Pope struggled over land and power.
However, the hermitage is important on our pilgrimage because of what happened there in 1228. This is the location where Saint Francis used live people and retold the story of the birth of Christ. It is considered the birthplace of the tradition of nativity scenes which is so important to the Christian’s Christmas celebration. Everyone was excited to see Santuario Eremo di Greccio, but how does one get up there. Of course, steps… a lot of steps.
Reaching the top, we were offered some amazing views of the valley below. Although it was overcast, the view was not diminished by the lack of sun.
Entering the chapel from the choir loft level, we were once again impressed by the nave’s simplicity. Dimly lit, the stone walls featured a few stain glass windows, one of which portrays the forgiveness of Saint Francis with Saint Clare as this side.
There is a hallway that runs parallel to the chapel at the choir level that has multiple nativity scenes on display. Each crèche is displayed under lights to highlight the beauty of the craftmanship of the work. Janet, being all about the Christmas season, was enthralled by each piece of art and took special notice of every detail.
Continuing through the hermitage, there was much to see and experience. Simplicity seemed to be the word of the day. This is the cave where the first live (the second really) nativity scene was held.
At the end of a corridor, one can see Saint Francis’ cell where he stayed when he was at the Hermitage.
Down another corridor was a row of doors on both sides. Each door was a cell. The door was open on one of the cells giving us a view of a monk’s living space. These small cells were actively used from 1260 to 1911.
We made our way down the steps back to the bus expecting to load up and head off for lunch. To our surprise, there had been a change of plans… We would eat at the little restaurant in the parking lot. There was one problem. Another bus had arrived! When added to a few solo travelers plus our group all hitting the line to order at one time – chaos ruled!. The poor folks behind the counter were totally overwhelmed.
It was quite a circus, but with lunch finished we boarded the bus and headed down the hill to our next destination, which would be our last stop of the day before we headed to our new hotel in Assisi. While riding through the beautiful countryside, the bus began to slow and then pulled off on the side of the road. After a brief conversation with Fabricio, the driver exited the bus and began working on the engine. So, what does a group of pilgrim singers do when they are stuck on a broken bus… why sing of course! Non-singers laid back and enjoyed the hymns while checking the light integrity of their eye lids. A very nice way to seek the silence of one’s mind as Saint Francis had taught.
Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli, which is also a Papal Basilica, sits below and just a few miles away from Assisi. The Basilica is very impressive in size and beauty, but what makes it special is what is inside. A small stone building, the Portiuncula (little portion), sits directly under the massive Basilica’s dome. The building, a 9th century church, was owned by the Benedictine monks. It was in total disrepair and covered with vegetation when Francis stumbled upon it. He repaired and made the Portiuncula habitable (well at least 1226 standards) making it his home and a gathering point for his followers. The Benedictines turned it over to Francis.
The small stone chapel has undergone many improvements since Francis brought it back to life in 1211. Most notably is the Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli which is built around it. Pope Pius V directed the Basilica be built in 1569 and it took over 100 years to complete. The mosaic dome by a German artist in the early 1800s is breathtaking and tells the story of Francis receiving the “Pardon of Assisi”. This pardon has attracted pilgrims to this location for 800 years.
We met in the corner of the Basilica and were greeted by a sister. She led us through a few hallways to a chapel which was very plain and looked more like a classroom. But how appropriate to have Mass where Francis lived and died in a chapel not adorned with brilliant works of art, but just a simple altar and a group of believers united in prayer and song.
The voices of the choir echoed in the small chapel and from the last row, Laura’s flute had a heavenly sound that drifted up to the sanctuary. Sitting up front, Tom could see passersbys peeking in as they walked to the nave of the Basilica. However a special moment occurred when one of our youngest pilgrims, Emaline, called us to stand for the Gospel with the Alleluia. An aha moment for the trip. Her angelic voice will not be forgotten.
Leaving Santa Maria degli Angeli, the skies began to look ominous. The hotel was just a short ride away, but the question became whether we would have to make a run to our lodging.
Well, we were lucky… the rain held off and the walk from the bus to the hotel was very short. Our luggage had been delivered while we were visiting the Basilica, so we just had to grab our keys and head to our rooms to freshen up before dinner. The Hotel Windsor Savoia would be home for the next four days. Located on the edge of Assisi, it offers very nice and spacious rooms. We were overjoyed when we entered the room and saw that our room overlooked the valley. Opening the doors to the valley below we stood in awe… Life is good!
(sorry Tom’s camera was still packed so his phone captured the moment)
The rain finally caught us, but we were safe inside for dinner. Evening Prayers were in a small porch area. We closed out our first night in Assisi with fellowship and a bottle of Sagrantino, a local Umbrian wine, with fellow pilgrims.
Good Night
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