Our first stop would be outside the city along the Appian Way. There we descended into the Catacombe of San Sebastiano (Catacomb of San Sebastian). Our guide for the subterranean tour gathered us together and explained the history, Sebastian the man, and how the construction of this vast cave was done.
Sebastian was a 3rd century martyr. A Christian in hiding as a member of the Emperor Diocletian's Praetorian Guard, he was discovered helping Christian prisoners and ordered to be executed by the emperor. Sebastiano was tied to a column and archers shot him multiple times. He was left tied up and thought to be for dead. When the executioners left the scene, he was found to be still alive. He was untied and cared for by a widow. Over time Sebastiano was nursed back to health. He was urged to flee Rome, but instead he returned to Rome and challenged Emperor Diocletian in public. On Diocletian’s orders he was clubed to death in the Circus Maximus and thrown into a sewer. Pulled from the sewer his body was secretly taken via the Appian Way to be laid to rest. This was done because the law stated that Christians could not be buried in the city.
As you can imagine, a catacomb is not necessarily a good place to hang out if one is claustrophobic. Navigating through tight pathways in a group of 48 was quite an undertaking, considering our group spanned 9 decades and had all levels of mobility. We pressed on and stayed close together because no one wanted to be left behind to wander lost amongst the dead.
With every turn there appeared to be another level down. There are 4 levels of tombs in the San Sebastiano catacomb. The top level has almost vanished with time. Levels 2 and 3 are accessible, and the 4th level is not due to safety issues. The factoid that blew us away was that there are over 65,000 individual dug tombs and over 100,000 people found their final resting place here.
It was time to ascend up to our exit, but there was one final stop. Standing in a small chamber the walls were filled with 3rd century graffiti. We have travelled extensively in Europe and graffiti is always present, however, we never knew it had such an early start.
The moment one walks into the nave, eyes are drawn to the ceiling. The detailed roof all done in wood is a sight to behold. The work was overseen by a dutchman named in Jan van Santen (Known to the Italians as Giovanni Vasanzio). This masterpiece was completed about the same time Captain John Smith reached the shores of Virginia. (Test question: What was that date?)
In San Sebastiano fuori le mura resides many works of art and religious relics. The two things that stood out to us were the sculpture of the bust of Our Savior (Salvator Mundi) by Bernini. This masterpiece had been lost and only rediscovered in 2001. The other was a cast of the footprints of Jesus. They were mentioned in the Acts of Peter. The story tells of Peter, encountering Christ on the Appian Way fleeing Rome from persecution. Peter asked, “Lord where are you going”, to which Jesus replied, “To Rome to be crucified again”. On those words Peter returned to Rome and shortly thereafter was crucified. Above the footprints on the lower shelf is an arrow on the left and a piece of column on the right, which were used in the execution of San Sebastiano.
Fabricio pointed out there are many legends and traditions in our religion that are based on acceptance vice historical proof. So, if you believe it is easy to accept, however if you do not believe it is impossible to accept.
Our next stop would be to another major Basilica, and once again it was outside the walls of Rome. Approaching the Basilica, one sees a radiant gold mosaic overlooking a statue of Saint Paul. This golden work of art is done with special glass tiles that are called tesserae.
The mosaic shows Christ on a throne flanked by Peter and Paul. Below them are 12 sheep (ok, they represent the apostles - lucky guess), and the bottom row are the prophets Isaiah, Jeremiah, Ezekiel, and Daniel. Each prophet is holding a scroll. We all gathered around Fabricio to learn what we would see once we entered the Basilica of Saint Paul Outside the Walls (Basilica Papale di San Paolo fuori le Mura).
There is much to see and think about behind the large doors of the Basilica; including the final resting place of Saint Paul.
The wooden ceiling is wood which has been covered in gold leaf stucco, and at the center is the seal of Pope Pius IX. After a major fire, the Basilica had to be reconstructed in the mid-1800s and Pius IX consecrated the new edifice. Guess that gives you the right to place your seal on the ceiling?
If you look up towards the ceiling, one will find all mosaic portraits of all 267 popes, beginning with Peter. There is a legend that when all the spaces on the wall are complete the world will end. I had to google how many spaces were left! The good news is there are 24 to 25 openings remaining. It appears we will be able to exit before that event.
In front of the main altar there are steps that lead you down to Saint Paul’s tomb, which is directly underneath the altar. The sarcophagus is large and there is a hole in the stone which reveals where his body lays. The chains that held Paul’s hands when he was in captivity are also on display. Christian traditions state the head of Saint Paul is not buried with the body, but at a different location… Stay tuned.
Basilica Papale di San Paolo fuori le Mura had been a very special stop on our pilgrimage to date, but we still had many days and holy places in front us. To get to these places we must get on the bus… the bus… the B. U. S.
We head to lunch at a bus station, and since my mother always said, keep your mouth shut if you do not have anything nice to say – My lips are sealed.
Our afternoon would hold to more important Basilicas. The first stop was to the Basilica of Santa Croce in Gerusalemme (Basilica of the Holy Cross in Jerusalem). The basilica is one of the seven pilgrim churches of Rome and is very important because of the relics it holds. Helen, mother of Emperor Constantine, travelled to the Holy Land when she was in her 80s. When she returned, she brought many relics that are a part of the passion and crucifixion of Jesus.
The outside does not look like the ordinary Rome Basilica. The two buildings flanking the church are a former monastery, now one of the many hotels of Rome. There were multiple religious orders that resided in the Basilica of the Holy Cross in Jerusalem, starting with the Benedictines who started it in 1000 A.D. finishing with the Cistercians who moved in around 1500 A.D. It was the Cistercians who completed the final structure around 1700.
Our final church would be the Papal Archbasilica of St. John Lateran. Remember a couple days ago when I said Saint Peter’s Basilica was not the most important church of our faith? Well, the Papal Archbasilica of St. John Lateran is that place. It was only about a 6-block walk to the Archbasilica. On our stroll, we paralleled a park named Giardini di via Carlo Felice. In the park was a statue of Saint Francis and some of his followers. Growing up we had always heard stories about Saint Francis and animals, especially birds, so this scene had to be captured.
The Lateran Basilica as it is usually called is the oldest of the four major papal basilicas, and it is one of the Seven Pilgrim Churches of Rome. The reason for it’s status is because it dates back to 311 A.D. when Emperor Constantine issued the Edict of Milan, which allowed Christians to practice their faith openly without fear of persecution. The Archbasilica is built over the ruins of a Roman fort that was abandoned and mostly destroyed after the Battle of the Milvian Bridge. A very wealthy and influential Roman family, the Lateran family, built a palace on the site until Emperor Constantine became in control of the property. He turned it over to Pope Sylvester I as his residence and it was also the location of the first synod of bishops. The dedication of the building as the Archbasilica of St. John Lateran was held in 324.
Over the years it has been expanded and remodeled. It suffered through abandonment and fire when the Pope moved to Avignon. Following the Middle Ages multiple restorations were completed with the final touch done by Pope Clement XII. The Archbasilica is named after John the Baptist, John the Evangelist, and the Lateran Family. It is the seat of the Bishop of Rome (the Pope) and the Mother Church of Catholicism.
The doors to the Archbasilica are HUGE and the nave inside is breathtaking! The size and breath of the building is something to behold. The statues of the apostles are between supporting columns. The interior is primarily baroque in style, but the builders also used ancient pillars as part of the design.
The Archbasilica and the adjoining palace are important to our pilgrimage because it was here that Francis met Pope Innocent III to request his blessing. However, Francis was rejected on establishing his order and primitive rule of life. Pope Innocent encouraged him to keep working and mature his followers in the faith. It would be another 10 years for Francis to gain approval from a succeeding Pope. The ceilings we have seen with detailed unmatched has been a highlight.
At the top of the ciborium incased in silver are the heads Peter and Paul.
It would be here in a chapel behind the main altar where we would celebrate our Mass today. It would also be another special moment for Tom. He would assist Father as an altar server for the Mass. The last time he served was in the late 1960s, but once again he was very excited and honored to have an active part in the celebration in such a special place.
The choir was amazing and their lovely voices attracted others in the Archbasilica to join us in the celebration. Today was a good day!
After Mass, on our right as we exited the Chapel was another side altar that had a beautiful Last Supper sculpture above the altar.
What a great snapshot memory to leave Rome on. Tomorrow we will head to Neti valley and then on to Assisi to continue our pilgrimage.
The group chatted long after dinner, and some of us even headed out for walk. Actually, it was really a gelato run - Pistachio please! A walk sounds much healthier 😉
– Good Night!
“Jesus is happy to come with us, as truth is happy to be
spoken, as life to be lived, as light to be lit, as love is to be loved, as joy
to be given, as peace to be spread.” St. Francis
of Assisi
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