After a breakfast, we gathered as a group to take a short walk uphill to the “Hill from Hell”. The streets were damp from the rain last night making the going just a little slippery. This repudiated location was once the site of the town’s garbage dump, where executions were held, and the streets leading there were lined with brothels.
This infamous location is where Saint Francis requested to be buried. What is amazing to us was that Francis died on October 3, 1226. He was canonized as a saint in less than two years on July 16, 1228. At Saint Francis’s canonization, Pope Gregory IX ordered a basilica be built on the Hill from Hell to honor and hold the remains of Francis. The land was donated to the papacy and construction began immediately. The hill was renamed by Pope Gregory to Hill from Paradise. The basilica would end up being a two-part design. The Lower Basilica was completed in 1230 and on Pentecost Sunday, Francis’s body was moved to the new Basilica that bears his name.
Reaching the top, we found multiple trucks being unloaded. Next week the celebration of the unification of Italy called Festa della Repubblica (Republic Day) would be celebrated with a major concert on the grounds of the Basilica. We all gathered around Father Jason as he gave us an overview the Basilica’s history and what to expect once we entered. Father concluded the words that Tom never likes to hear – No Photos! Tucking his camera back in the case, we entered the Lower Basilica.
Walking in, one immediately got the sense they were in a cave. An ornate one, but not over the top like the basilicas we saw in Rome. The frescos on the walls and ceiling recounted many biblical events and the life of saints. The curvature of the ceiling only enhanced the cave-like feeling. The main altar was made of a signal stone and was massive. Ornamental columns surrounded the altar, with each being different.
(Tom followed the rules and did not snap any pictures of the Lower or Upper Basilica. However, the group did get permission to film the choir at the evening service, which allowed these stills to be captured by our pilgrim camera operator)
Within the Lower Basilica there are steps that lead down to the Crypt. This is where one will find the tomb of Saint Francis. His exact resting place was only rediscovered in the early 1800s, and a beautiful crypt was built to honor his resting place. The line was so long we did not get to go down into the crypt at this time.
To enter the Upper Basilica, one must walk up steps that lead outside. To our excitement, the sun had come out and the views of the valley were breath taking! It was like the arches of the adjoining Friary were pointing to the beauty of the valley below.
The gray clouds were fading into the distance and blue skies with white fluffy clouds were moving in. We could not use the main Basilica’s doors due to the stage for the celebration being set up on the steps. So, we would enter through the side entrance.
Construction of the Upper Basilica began following the completion of the Lower Basilica. Started in 1239 and completed in 1250, the walls are covered with beautiful frescos. Unfortunately, they are not as vibrant as they once were, but still impressive. The Upper Basilica was severely damaged by an earthquake in 1997. After hearing this, Tom wanted to find pictures of the damage but instead found a video on YouTube that was taken when the earthquake occurred. Two friars were killed when the vault collapsed. ( 1997 Basilica Collapse ) Exiting the Upper Basilica, we returned to the Lower Basilica to leave.
The size of these two buildings when connected to the Sacro Convento friary makes the Papal Basilica quite a large complex. The friary today is one of the largest Catholic libraries in the world with a vast collection of medieval manuscripts and works of art. During WWII, it also provided refuge for many Italian Jewish children. They gave the children new identities and families while keeping detailed records so the children could be reunited with their families following the war.
Our group was really starting to bond, with group pictures happening more and more. The fresh air of Umbria and far away from the crowded streets of Rome just seemed to have a positive effect on everybody. There were a lot of pictures and a lot of laughs as we left the Basilica and headed downtown.
Today would be a free day until Mass this evening. We were ready to explore Assisi. Fabricio herded all the cats, and we headed uphill (again) to the town square. The walk was only a half mile, but it seemed like everywhere we walked it was uphill. The town was buzzing when we reached the Piazza del Comune in the center of Assisi.
We gathered around the fountain and got directions to an ATM and a public restroom if needed and then we scattered in the wind.
When travelling with Tom in Europe, there are three things he is always on the lookout for: a good place to eat, a wine shop, and some pistachio gelato. It became obvious immediately that today was going to be a good day for Tom. We walked the streets window shopping, watching craftsmen create ceramic plates, and enjoying all the flowers that lined the streets.
Out of nowhere a gray cloud passed overhead dropping a little rain on our parade. Bumping into fellow pilgrims, Bill and Kathleen, we decided to grab lunch and wait for the rain to pass. A small restaurant attached to a hotel was just opening and a quick glance at the menu sealed the deal. We were just seated and the heavens opened.
Janet went with a fennel, arugula, and citrus salad and a bowl of local lentil soup. One of Tom’s goals for the day was checked off! A great restaurant and they had rabbit cooked with apples! So good! Great conversation while we ate, and as we were finishing Father Jason and a couple of his brother Friars came in for their lunch. We chatted with them before heading back out and were glad to see the sun had returned. Bill and Kathleen went right towards the hotel and we went left heading out of the city walls.
Just as we cleared the stone gate, we found a small park that offered great views of the valley.
Continuing down the street it was not long before we found the second thing on Tom’s goals for the day. A wine shop featuring free tasting of local wines, cheeses, and olive oil. Without hesitation, we headed for the shop.
Francesco and Tom hit it off immediately. Multiple wines were poured featuring local Umbrian grapes of Grechetto, Sagrantino, as well as a few samples of international grapes like Merlot. The wines were all very impressive. Francesco’s family has been involved in cheese making for generations and the selection of his family’s cheese and olive oil were also sampled and enjoyed. Truffles being a big thing in Umbria were also offered but Tom passed… just not his thing. Francesco offered free shipping if we bought six items. That was not hard, and a box with our name on it would be shipped UPS back to the U.S. What a find!
It was time to head back to the hotel and get ready for this evening’s Mass. At no rush, but walking at a steady pace, we continued to encounter some amazing sights.
As we group, we climbed the hill back to Basilica Papale di San Francesco in Assisi. Saturday evening’s Mass was held in Lower Basilica. The singers took their position behind the altar, while the rest of were seated at different locations around the Basilica. We were on the left side of the altar which gave us a unique view of the choir as well as the Priests co-celebrating the Mass. Father Jason was one of the priests and he did all his parts in Italian. Pretty sure he was a little nervous, but from our American ears he sounded like a local. Evidently, at the beginning of the Mass the Italian celebrant had announced to the congregation that the choir was from Raleigh, North Carolina. The Mass was beautiful even though honestly, we understood very little. It is nice being Catholic in that wherever you go, the Mass is pretty much the same, and one can silently say the Mass to themselves in the language they understand.
The choir was excellent and the acoustics of the building allowed their voice to be heard in every corner of this sacred place. As the Mass came to an end the choir rose to sing what Tom calls the “going home” song, better known as the recessional hymn. The celebrant gave the blessing and the three priests exited the sanctuary as the choir’s voice got stronger. When the song finished there was a moment of silence and then the entire congregation broke out in loud applause. Well done!
After dinner many of us gathered on the balcony of the hotel. We all sang songs we knew… even the non-singers, but not loudly. A good time was had by all!
Father Jason joined us announcing he was headed to his favorite gelato place. Tom was up like a rocket, and a small posse headed out with Father in search of the best gelato in Assisi. However, it was pushing nine o’clock and Father was not sure the shop would be open when we got there. Once again, we started to head up the hill again. Reaching the piazza, we took a break at the fountain. “Father, where is the gelato shop?”, we asked. At the back gate, he replied. We walked off any calories consumed by the time we got there, ate the gelato, and then walked back.
But Father was right, it was really really really good gelato - Pistachio, of course! All three boxes had been checked off for Tom’s perfect day.
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