As we approached the Vatican, we were aghast at the number of people already in the line. We blew past them and headed into the bus garage, which would be our rendezvous point once again. Fabricio lead us to a much shorter line and gave us specific directions. He told us, it does not matter how close or far from the front stage you sit, just make sure you get on the end of a row.
Clearing the security checkpoint, the group scattered in multiple locations, each looking for an end of row seat. We were in position at 7:55 am, head on with the stage, and in seats 4 and 5 next to the center row…and then our wait began.
Pope Leo was not scheduled to arrive until 10 am, and as the morning dragged on the skies behind us were beginning to turn deep grey. We said our prayers and crossed our fingers the storm would blow past. Everyone made the best of it by chatting and visiting with the people around them and just taking in the happenings in the square.
Up on the steps near where the Pope would speak and bless the crowds, brides and grooms waited for their Papal Blessing.
Shortly before Pope Leo’s scheduled entrance to the square, raindrops began to fall, and the worst of our fears were about to be realized. One experience that was not on either of our bucket lists was to be sopping wet with 15,000 other pilgrims with nowhere to get out of the rain. By 10 o’clock it appeared every seat in St Peter’s square seemed to be filled and the sun began peeking out between the clouds.
The crowd came alive and a roar could be heard announcing Pope Leo’s arrival. Riding in a small cart, he circumnavigated the square. With a constant wave and smile, he stopped numerous times to bless some of the children in the crowd.
Today was a special feast day for those of the Catholic faith. It was on May 13, 1917, Our Lady of Fátima appeared to three young shepherd girls in Portugal. However, it was also an anniversary of a much more somber day in our church’s history. It was also on this day that Pope John Paul II was shot in the square 45 years ago. We could see that the cart had stopped and that Pope Leo exited and began walking. It was not until later that we understood what he did. The Pontiff went to the site of shooting, which is marked, and said a prayer for a papal predecessor. The Vatican News posted this picture the following day.
At last, the vehicle turned down our aisle as it headed to the steps of the Vatican. Honestly, we were both so excited to see Pope Leo that we took very few shots. Suffice it to say it was a very moving and memorable experience to be within 20 feet of the Vicar of Christ.
After a blessing to the crowd and a song from a visiting group, the general audience and our moment with the Pope came to a close. Navigating back to the bus with the exiting 1000s was a little tricky because the way we entered was blocked off and a new route had to be discovered.
Back on the bus we headed across town to The Papal Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. This beautiful Basilica is almost 16 centuries old, and one of the 4 Papal Basilicas in Rome. The beauty of this edifice is hard to equal. There are seven popes buried here as well as the remains of Saint Jerome and Saint Matthew. We all gathered around Fabricio as he covered the history of the Basilica.
The building of Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore can be traced back to a miraculous event in August of 352 A.D. when the Blessed Virgin appeared to a rich childless couple and Pope Liberius in a dream. She requested that a church be built in her honor where they found snow in the morning. The building today stands in that location and is often referred to as Our Lady of the Snow. Initial construction was completed in 8 years, but the building has gone through multiple extensions and renovations in the following 1300 years. The last major upgrade was completed in the 1730s.
If one looks up 85 feet above them, they will see a gift from Queen Isbella of Castile and King Ferdinand of Aragon. The gold is said to be from the first voyages to the new world on their bequest. Pope Borgia, who had a very sketchy tenure as pope was who granted permission for Isbella and Ferdinand to marry as second cousins as well as being the eldest son’s godfather. In the center of the ceiling is Pope Borgia’s family crest.
A statue of Pope Pius IX kneeling in prayer can be seen in front of the Reliquary of the Holy Crib. This ornate relic container is said to house pieces of the crib where Jesus laid. The sculpture memorializes the man who served the longest as the verified leader of the Catholic Church. He also called for the first Vatican Council which established many of the rubrics to our faith today.
However, as modern-day Catholics, many of us looked forward to the opportunity to pray and reflect at the grave of a Pope that had touched our lives. At his request, Pope Francis, the first pope from the Americas, was laid to rest in the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. Like the man, his resting place is off to the side in a quiet area, absent of ornate art, but in its simplicity the grave site is beautiful.
Everyone’s stomach had been growling. Our breakfast 7 hours ago had run out. The bus dropped us off on the edge of a neighborhood known as Trastevere. This area goes back to ancient Rome as a location where the working people lived. We weaved through the narrow cobblestone streets lined with houses, shops, and of course, restaurants. Frabrico took us to the center piazza where we found the Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere. This is where we would celebrate Mass today, but first, everyone scattered for an overdue lunch break.
We wandered down a side street until we found a suitable eating establishment named Enoteca Trastevere. It was perfect! It was a wine bar (enoteca) where there was seating outside, umbrellas in case it did start to rain, and all-time favorite of Tom’s on the menu - Coniglio in porchetta! In English we would ask for Rabbit stuffed with bacon and rosemary. Janet went with an eggplant dish, and we split a beautiful salad with a burrata di bufala. Bill and Kathy joined us for lunch and the only thing that exceeded the meal was the company of our new friends.
The time had come, the choir voices raised with the opening song and our Mass had begun. After the opening prayers and saying the Confiteor as a group, it was time for the reading.
Tom climbed the steps and headed to the eagle shaped lectern in front of the choir. The acoustics were amazing and his voice echoed from every corner of the nave. To this day, we are clueless if he pronounced Areopagus correctly or not. He will tell you that I just went for it. Completing the reading, he returned to his seat tingling with excitement that he was an active participant in the Mass in this beautiful Basilica. Once again, Father Jason said a beautiful Mass with a Homily that appeared to be written for the day. The choir’s voices were something that we will remember for many days to come.
Following Mass, we all gathered as group at the entrance of the Basilica. Fabricio told us we had one more stop for the day, the Sanctuary of San Francesco a Ripa Grande. This is where Saint Francis stayed while waiting to meet with Pope Innocence III in the early 1200s. He was there to seek papal permission to form an order. Although he was unsuccessful with Pope Innocence, with persistence the following Pope approved the establishment of what we know today as the Franciscans.
Fabricio said no bus was needed, it was a short 600 meter walk straight to the Sanctuary. When we opened the door, the rain that we escaped in the morning had found us. It was pouring, and the bad news was no one had umbrellas because we thought Vatican security would take them when we went to the general audience. Nothing to do but run or walk as quickly as possible.
The group came in waves entering this ancient church and different degrees of wetness. We all took a seat as Fabricio translated the Italian words of the Franciscan Friar who told us the history of the building and described the artwork encompassed in it.
The friar spoke no English but was so excited about the information he was sharing that we had no problem understanding the main points as he guided up through the sanctuary. We passed by a narrow hallway that almost looked like a cave. At the end of the hall there was a small opening which revealed the room that Saint Francis used when staying here in the 1200s.
The Benedictine monks of Ripa Grande who ran the Hospice of San Biagio during Francis’ visit kept records showing that Francis stayed with them multiple times as a guest. Even after Francis passed, many followers would return to the hospice to stay when they were in Rome. In 1229, the Pope turned control of the Hospice of San Biagio from the Benedictine monks to the Franciscan Friars.
It was amazing to watch – what craftmanship! Check out the short video below
The rain had stopped and the group slowly walked through the back streets of Trastevere to the bus. It had been a very long day that began at the crack of down. Now we returned to the hotel just in time for evening prayers and dinner. After dinner, Jim called a quick choir practice in the lobby.
The choir broke out in popular songs from the 60s and 70s drawing a crowd of onlookers from other groups. The hotel management decided at 10 pm that the lobby had been alive long enough with the sounds of music. Everyone decided to retire for the night. However, the group was still buzzing with excitement for two reasons. We saw the Pope today and the bus would not be pulling out tomorrow morning until 9 am! Yes! Good Night.
“Where there is peace and meditation, there is neither anxiety nor doubt.” St. Francis Of Assisi
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