Following breakfast, the group once again headed up the hill towards the center of Assisi. However, we took a different street than our normal way… It was a little bit flatter. Our first destination of the morning was the La Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore. It was here where we would have our daily Mass. Compared to most of the Basilicas and Churches of this scale, it was by far the simplest. Beautiful in its simplicity! There are two parts to the church complex: the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore and the Sanctuary of the Spoliation. The sanctuary is where Francis began his life dedicated to the poor in front of his father and the bishop. Today many pilgrims come here to visit the grave and relics of the Blessed Carlo Acutis. He died at 15 and is not the youngest saint but is the first millennial saint having grown up in the digital age playing computer games to becoming an internet influencer. A waxed likeness is on display with his body below in the church. He is wearing a tracksuit and Nike tennis shoes.
Here is a shot of Tom assisting Father with the Mass but take notice of how basic and simple the Altar is compared to many of the churches we have visited. We are definitely not in Rome anymore!
We were able to visit the museum and the resting place of Blessed Carlo Acutis, but once again – No Photos! However, as soon as we got back outside the cameras and phones were snapping away!
Our day continued with a short walk to the Basilica di Santa Chiara (The Basilica of Saint Clare). The picture was taken earlier in the week when the sun was not out, but on this day the sun was shining brightly.
Saint Clare was born Chiara Offreduccio into a noble family in Assisi. She heard Francis speak and only days afterwards she began her life as one of his most dedicated followers. Her uncle was furious and went to where Francis was at the Portiuncula (the little Church inside St Mary of the Angels Basilica from earlier in the week) and tried to retrieve her with no success. A few weeks later when Chiara, the youngest sister, followed Clare to the Portiuncula the uncle went absolutely berserk. He was once again unsuccessful in extraditing the sisters. It is a great story… Google it sometime.
Entering the Basilica, the nave seemed much larger than it did from the outside. The vibrant stain glass provided a beautiful color hue and illuminated the frescos on the wall.
The side chapels offered an escape for some private prayer and many of us took a moment to a light candle for a special intention.
Tom had not seen the no photo sign, but Janet got him straight pretty quick, but not before he had snapped a few of these shots. Sorry!
The crypt of Saint Clare resembled Saint Francis’ tomb at the Basilica of Saint Francis across town. Like Francis, her burial site was unknown for years to keep people from taking relics from her body. It was rediscovered in the mid-1800s and moved to the Basilica. When her original gravesite was opened, her body was found intact and incorrupt. Since then, her body has begun deteriorating. We are not sure if that is amazing or freaky, but 600 years with little to no rot is definitely not normal.
We had some time to kill before our next adventure. Fabricio had arranged a fleet of taxi cabs to take us to the church of San Damiano and the associated monastery. The piazza in front of the Basilica afforded us some memorable views.
The Rocca Maggiore sits high above the city.
The lush valley below where it seemed that only the curvature of the earth limited the view.
However, everyone was beginning to realize that our time together was coming to end. Many gathered around the fountain to chat and wait for our final excursion. It seemed hard to believe it was coming to an end.
The altar and the choir area for the sisters reflected how beautiful simplicity can be. In the monastery, we found a small chapel where Saint Clare prayed, which was not far from where she died August 11, 1253.
Like Francis, Clare was canonized as a Saint only two years after her death. Something that totally blew us away was learning that Saint Clare is the Patron Saint of Television. In 1958, Pope Pius XII referenced the Franciscan tradition that on Christmas Eve in 1252 Clare was extremely ill and could not attend Midnight Mass. In her sadness of not being able to attend, she prayed. When she looked at the wall, the Mass became visible like a projection, and she could hear the words and songs of the Mass. Pope Pius believed that this "wondrous instrument" had great potential good and bad, and Clare would be a good guide to help use the device morally and for the good of all. Not sure if the networks today are using Saint Clare as their guide for good programming.
The grounds of San Damiano monastery were like the buildings – simple but beautiful. There was not a window we passed that did not offer a worthwhile glimpse and make one’s mind wander back in time.
The weather was gorgeous and everyone just seemed so happy to be in this tranquil place. It could be seen in their smiles and eyes that we had found a small piece of heaven.
As we left San Damiano and walked back toward our waiting taxi, we could not resist pausing at the statue of Saint Francis overlooking the valley below. To us, the scene captured the beauty of everything around it - the city, the church, the sports stadium, the mountains, the olive groves, and even a Ferris wheel in the distance. Yet amid all of it, Francis sits quietly in reflection, seeking silence and peace. We hope this pilgrimage will help us do the same. Keeping perspective of the world around us and to appreciate its’ beauty, but being able to quiet our minds and focus on what truly matters.
Returning to Assisi, we decided to take a slow walk around parts of the town which we had not explored. Roaming down streets and alleys with no particular destination, the beauty of Assisi could be found on every corner. Everything about this place seemed special to us and we were so happy to experience it.
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If ever given the opportunity to visit Italy, we highly recommend a visit to Saint Francis and Saint Clare’s hometown.
We arrived back at the hotel in time for the afternoon jam on the 2nd floor balcony. Tony on the alto sax, Jim on guitar, and Laura on flute quickly became a sing-along and dance party.
Tony soon got little Isabelle’s feet going like she was an Irish dancer!
Everyone was laughing, singing like a rock star, and having a very good time! At some point, Jim snuck down to the street just to take it all in.
For Tom, the highlight came when Tony started playing “At Last” and Laura did her very best Etta James. It was great and people were stopping on the street to enjoy.
But… At Last, the dinner bell rang and we all headed inside for our last supper (no pun intended) together. It is here that we learned that our departure in the morning would be at o’dark-thirty. Our flight is leaving in the late morning, we have to be at the airport 3 hours before the flight, and it is a 2 ½ hour bus ride to the airport. The answer to this word problem = YUCK!
At dinner it was decided we would do our evening prayers on the balcony and the choir would do one more song. Returning to the balcony the sun was slowly sinking and a storm could be seen in the distance. The reflection of the sun on the rain and clouds was mesmerizing!
It was with this backdrop the choir sang our goodbye to Saint Francis, to the people of Italy that had been so kind, and to the wonderful pilgrimage experienced by all. A crowd gathered below to listen.
Not long after the choir had finished, a group of sisters walked up the hill. Jim quickly gathered the choir and they once again filled the streets with a song. The nuns stopped to enjoy and gave a loud ovation when the choir was done.
Then the most magical thing happened. The sisters returned the song with a song. Their voices brought everyone to the railing. What a special moment to end our trip.
Just like clockwork, the sun disappeared as predicted with a spectacular show. With our early wake up call, most of us disappeared quickly after the music to finish backing and to get a good 5 hour nap before our bus trip to Rome.
Good Night
"Keep a clear eye toward life's end. Do not forget your purpose and destiny as God's creature. What you are in his sight is what you are and nothing more." Saint Francis of Assisi
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